Review: Yuen Bettei Deita

Why book?

A ryokan-style hotel, complete with mineral-rich onsen water, set in the heart of Tokyo’s coolest neighborhood—need we say more?

Set the scene

Like the quaint Japanese inns found deep in the countryside, Yuen Bettei Daita leans hard into traditional wellness, proving to be a favorite among international visitors and staycationing Tokyoites alike. There’s a major Catch-22 to staying here—the rooms and baths are so inviting that you’ll never want to leave, and yet you’re smack dab in the middle of Shimokitazawa, largely considered to be Tokyo’s funnest cluster of city blocks and a global hub of streetwear fashion.

The backstory

When officials buried the tracks of the Odakyu suburban metro line underground, a new opportunity presented itself to urban planners: create ample swaths of green space overtop; a novelty in cramped Tokyo. In came a long path from Higashi Kitazawa station all the way down to Setagaya Daita with shops, restaurants, and this compelling new hotel; the emerald in this newly developed greenway.

Rooms

From soothing soaking tubs, to shoji sliding walls with paper screens, the rooms boast every tenet of the traditional ryokan, but fair warning: the entry-level rooms are small (200sq ft).

Food & drink

Like the traditional countryside inns, the multi-course menus in the restaurant, Tsukikage, pay tribute to a panoply of seasonal ingredients.

Spa

The Sojyu Spa—a distinctly Japanese wellness brand—operates separately within the confines of the hotel, both as a retreat for guests, and as a day spa welcoming weary Tokyoites. The one-hour massage is a shockingly good deal at only 8,000 yen per session. Not to be missed is the onsite onsen, an alkaline bath which draws its waters from a source deep within Hakone, a famous hot springs region at the base of Mount Fuji about 90 minutes outside of the city.

Neighborhood

Over the last decade, the gravity of Tokyo’s coolest neighborhoods has continued shifting southwestward, beyond the circle of the Yamanote train line and out into the boroughs of Setagaya and Meguro. Shimokitazawa reigns supreme as the coolest district in all of Tokyo; a scatter of traditional and modern construction replete with chic espresso shops, vintage clothing stores, and plenty of curry parlors and ramen joints.