Review: Rosewood Hong Kong

Set the scene Celebrated interior designer Tony Chi's steady hand is plain to see throughout, from the rich fabrics to the nickel-plated copper sinks. The artworks—Damien Hirst, Joe Bradley, et al.—fit seamlessly, and the hotel manages to pull off a neat blend of East and West (placing a rather traditional Chinese restaurant next to a tapas-inspired gastro market, for instance). The hotel is very Hong Kong in that it’s confident in its high-end status, almost bordering on flashy, yet innovative and youthful and fresh.

What’s the backstory? The Cheng family owners originally came from Shunde in China. They did well in jewelry and real estate, and redeveloped the site to accommodate an office tower, a mall, and a Rosewood (they bought the group back in 2011, with Sonia Cheng, then 30, as its CEO). The hotel is a trophy project, for sure, but one that’s been achieved with more than a little panache.

What can we expect in our room? The views—mainly harbor but some over the city—can be enjoyed from the freestanding tub, while in the more expensive rooms bottles of spirits line the drinks table and arresting artworks speckle the walls. That the soaps (Maison Caulières) and similar amenities change to reflect the seasons is the best indicator of the attention to detail applied in putting together a very superior home away from home.

How about the food and drink? There’s nothing random here—everything has been carefully thought-out to cater to all possible tastes. Breakfast at Holt’s Café skips about between Western, Asian, and the ultra-healthy; the list of teas at the Butterfly Patisserie runs to dozens of pages; breezy Bayfare Social is seemingly but half a step down from the Food Hall at Harrods and is complemented by Henry, a grill piloted by the multi-tattooed, multi-talented British chef Nathan Green (it’s very meat-centric, the artisanal sausages are sublime). The list goes on though; minced fish soup with fungus and tangerine peel spice up the menu at the Legacy House and Harley-Davidsons park up to hit DarkSide for live jazz even on Monday evenings.

What’s the crowd like? The Cheng family is so wealthy as to be remarkable in Hong Kong, a fact reflected by the clientele—be they residents dropping by for lunch or drinks or visitors from overseas flying in on business.

Anything to say about the service? When the waiter spilled a couple of drops of wine at lunch (it happens), both apology and clearing-up were swift and deft. Such professionalism.

What’s the neighborhood scene like? The Rosewood’s opening marked the final act of a highly theatrical renaissance in the area that’s seen both the nearby Hong Kong Museum of Art and the harborfront promenade revamped, as well as the advent of K11 Musea, an inspiring mix of retail and entertainment that is so much more than a mall. Both metro and ferries are more or less on the doorstep.

Anything else to add? Asaya, occupying an entire floor, describes itself as an "integrated wellness center," which although sounds rather gimmicky is fair enough as "spa" would be woefully inadequate. Treatments are holistic in nature and delivered with real passion. The option of staying overnight and dining in situ is a clever addition.

Anything you’d change? Of course, it’s sheer indulgence to suggest Asaya’s heated marble lie-flat shower should be widened to accommodate a couple.

Is it worth it? It’s quite the smartest (in all senses of the word) hotel in Hong Kong, and likely to remain so for some time to come.